Creed: The Scent of Success

Founded in London in 1760 by James Henry Creed, the House of Creed quickly became the official supplier of fragrances for the royal court under the orders of Queen Victoria, a ruler synonymous with elegance and sophistication.

Serving over ten royal houses and a long line of emperors and empresses including Napoleon, Eugénie of France, Franz-Joseph and Elizabeth of Austro-Hungary and Christina of Spain, Creed relocated to Paris in 1854 and today its flagship store still remains on Avenue Pierre. It is claimed that at one stage all the palaces of Europe were filled with the scents created by James Henry Creed and his descendants having established itself as a provider of the finest and most luxurious fragrances available. Even today as one of the hundred oldest family businesses in the world, Creed has been handed down from father to son, not only keeping its royal tradition intact, but also its familial traditions.

Despite technological advances the House of Creed refuses to use synthetics in the production of their scents and instead ancient techniques are still practiced as the components are weighed, mixed, macerated and filtered by hand. With each fragrance being steeped in such tradition it is believed that this is one of the factors which has lead to the brands resounding success today. Used by royalty, public leaders, celebrities, the successful and fashionable, the brand continues to be highly valued and is seen as an aspirational scent. Like the company itself, those wearing the brand often do so because like a family heirloom their forefathers have also worn the distinguished scents and once one has become a consumer of such a luxury, loyalty is established and the secret is passed on through the generations.

One of Creed’s most high profile fragrances is Green Irish Tweed, which was first introduced in 1985 and over the years has developed to become a signature cologne for many including HRH Prince Charles. Top notes of lemon and French verbena, along with Irish and violet leaf middle notes and a sandalwood base note are orchestrated together to create a clean and refreshing scent which instantly ignites ones senses yet is not overpowering. The ingredients create a woody fragrance which when enriched with aquatic scents it delivers an almost ‘mossy’ fragrance, reminiscent of the Irish forests, and shooting parties; a delicate balance between nature and aristocracy. The cologne evokes an image of the masculine country gentleman and research has found the scent appeals to strong minded males who are intellectually astute and physically sporting. Despite being an international best seller, Green Irish Tweed is still a rarity in everyday society making those in the know privileged to wear such an emblematic cologne.

Words: Sanyika Odieté

Celebration of an Icon: Mille Miglia

One of this generations most iconic pieces of clothing is the C.P. Company ‘Mille Miglia’ goggle jacket. Originally created as a gift by Massimo Osti as part of his labels sponsorship involvement in the 1988 Thousand Mile (Mille Miglia) Italian road race, this jacket has evolved to become one of the most complete and famous designer coats in existence today.

Season after season, the now legendary goggle jacket has been subject to continuous transformations and experimentations. Since its conception, C.P. Company have spent the past two decades researching and developing new materials for the Mille Miglia as well as creating over 60,000 dyes in their specialised colour laboratory to be used in the constantly reworked goggle jacket. It is through the brands commitment to deliver formality with function, technical facets with minimal fashion that the goggle jacket has developed into such an exceptional piece today.

To commemorate the 20th Anniversary of the goggle jacket, C.P. Company have collaborated with Aitor Throup to recreate the timeless classic which includes built in goggles, a watch porthole, detachable gloves and even a body segment that adjusts as you sit in your car. Constructed to celebrate both the past and future of the Mille Miliga the design is based specifically around the human form in a driving position as was the original jacket. Throup himself states the basis of his reworking has been "to take Massimo Osti’s classic back to the race itself; taking a literal approach to driving ergonomics and functionality, with the aim of creating a piece which is even further informed by its driving concept than the original".

http://www.cpcompany.co.uk/Features/Aitor-Throup-Video/page/aitorthroupvideo

To add this modern twist, Throup uses a Tinto Terra 3 layer Gore-Tex performance shell, a fabric recently developed to keep the wearer warm and dry through the multiple conditions encountered during a road race – something drivers could only have dreamt of in 1988. Having taken the jacket back to basics yet making it innovatively futuristic Throup encompasses all aspects of the brands history and technological advances making it the stand out piece for this season and many more to come, whether this limited edition jacket be worn on the open road, the terraces of European football stadiums or simply for the urban commuters 9 – 5 this is one of the most desired Mille Miliga to date.

Words: Sanyika Odieté

Fila: Icon Of The Casuals

Adopted by the football Casuals in 1973 who aspired to dress like playboys of the Italian Riviera on their super yachts, the iconic Fila Vintage sports label has continued to build upon the brands success, not only amongst their original loyal subculture of football fans but also by attracting a new audience in recent years thanks to the hefty dose of 80’s nostalgia we have seen of late.

Three years after the release of Nick Love’s film The Business and with his latest big screen adaptation of The Firm taking over cinemas this year, the infatuation towards the much loved Casuals era and legendary Fila Vintage label is stronger than ever. The release of these movies allowed Fila to emulate their 1980’s triumphs and elitist position within the overcrowded sportswear market of today by glamorising the vintage collection so the highly acclaimed British movies showcased the memorable classics designed by Pier-Luigi Rolando, including the now symbolic Mark (MK3), better known as the Terrinda….

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJAdB_HhaV0

Continuing the hugely popular line of Fila Matchday jackets the MK3 was launched in 1982 and quickly dubbed the Terrinda after the luxurious fabric from which it was made. Consisting of simple characteristics the jacket with its slightly padded shoulders, a biker style collar and thin white piping to represent the tennis court markings was innovative in its design and much time was spent by Fila developing what would later become their key piece of 80’s Casual attire. The tough-luxe velour like cloth in primary shades, was durable and gave a clean and sharp silhouette to its wearers but due to the research which had gone into creating this jacket it was the most expensive of its time and as a result production was limited which only added to its status in becoming the most sought after jacket of the decade. The Terrinda was worn by the toughest of football fans who had fought the hardest (and saved the longest) to buy what must be the ultimate lads jacket.

Despite the pleas from collectors, Fila have always been reluctant to re-release the Terrinda and it’s taken their design team countless hours to recreate the original unique fabric of the jacket, yet at last they have done so and as with all classic Italian labels they have remained faithful to the authenticity of the brands heritage. With the enthusiasm surrounding the Casuals couture today the recently resurrected Terrinda released in conjunction with The Firm is proving to be a popular as ever and continues to be the fastest selling Fila piece to date. Again, to remain loyal to their roots, Fila have only released 500 pieces per colour way (red, white, blue and green) so worldwide distribution is limited with each jacket coming in a specially comissioned presentation box.

The Terrinda has established itself so well with Casual conisseurs that it alone epitomizes fashion and football culture of the 1980's and possibly even today.

Words: Sanyika Odieté

The Ice Jacket

As indulgencies go, buying a winter coat is one freighted with responsibility. Fashion wise, this will probably be your biggest investment of the year, and one you can’t afford to get wrong. Considering the amount of time you and your winter coat will be spending together along with the image of you that your outer garment projects to others, it’s no wonder the purchase of such an item is often seen as an art form.

I personally feel though that this match should be approached instead with scientific empiricism, as you look to combine style, practicality and a unique twist to show the world a glimpse of your personality though they grey days of winter. Who better to look to for all this than the Italian techno-brand Stone Island….?

Known for their technical implementation and innovative use of functional fabrics developed since the labels launch in the late 1970’s Massimo Osti’s brand (now headed by husband and wife team Carlo and Sabina Rivetti) have again this season gone further than any other label to produce the ultimate winter jacket.

Following the labels strong suit of superbly constructed pieces Stone Island have released a modern interpretation of this 1989 Ice Jacket incorporating their coveted production methods yet remaining loyal to their clienteles terrace style status. The highlight of this heavily padded jacket is the rigid cotton moleskin which is treated to thermo-sensitive chameleon-like liquid crystals which enable a colour change in the material as the wintry air chills.

As the temperature drops from 15°c - 10°c the fabric passes through intermediate prismatic effects taking the jacket from its initial colour of electric blue, pistachio or grey to a deeper, darker more vintage colour-way of navy, olive green or black before restoring itself to its original colour as warmer conditions are restored.

The goose down jacket has a heavy duty zip front, fixed peak hood with toggle adjusters at the next for extra weather protection and reflective stripping on the cuffs and hem for high visibility. Adorning the upper left sleeve of the jacket is the prestigious black and white Stone Island badge created in recent years to emphasise the more technical pieces of each collection.

In addition to all this, the Ice Jacket is also a wonder on the inside too, coming with a detachable goose down quilted lining, with its own zip and hood to provide additional warmth. Remaining faithful to their multi-purpose roots, Stone Island have created this unique lining so it too can be worn as a coat in its own right.

Limited in numbers the Ice Jacket comes on its own heavy duty hanger in a specially created box and is sold exclusively at Stone Island stockists.

This is the winter coat, an iconic piece when it comes to fashion, collectable, wearable, beautiful, everything you could desire. If you are going to own one piece of Stone Island then this is the item to own.

Words: Sanyika Odieté

I ♥ PLAY

It seemed only natural that when PLAY, the luxury lifestyle brand by Japanese icon Comme des Garcons decided to launch a sneaker collection this season, that they collaborated with the footwear company which epitomizes casual cool – Converse.

Taking inspiration from Converse’s rich heritage, Rei Kawakubo reworks the 1950’s Chuck Taylor All Star shoe which was originally produced for the U.S military and creates four different styles bearing the infamous inquisitive eyed heart logo of Comme des Garcons in place of the traditional circular insignia of the canvas sneaker manufacturer.

The reinterpretations of Converse’s legendary shoe still bear the simple vintage silhouette yet have been transformed into both a low and high top unisex sneaker available in a classic black and white colour way.

The limited edition collection, which has just launched globally are to be sold exclusively at Comme des Garçons stores and other select boutiques which carry the PLAY line in New York, Paris, London (Dover Street Market), Seoul and Hong Kong.

words: Sanyika Odieté

FEATURE: Time Instruments

Launched in 1992 by French designers Bruno Belamich and Carlos A. Rosillo the Swiss brands unapologetic, oversize designs have become something of a wrist boosting classic. Created as a highly efficient watch capable of responding to the needs of the most demanding users, including NATO, the Air Force and the bomb disposal units of the French Civil security forces, Bell & Ross have quickly become the popular choice for high quality functional watches.

In recent years, several watch making brands have associated their image with a sport or other fashionable activity – cars, golf, sailing, aviation – anything goes. Without any seemingly obvious legitimacy beyond a commercial interest, the connection establishes the image that the brands and their respective partners wish to project. Bell & Ross however offer their customers a true moral contract. Based on aeronautical dials the manufacturers have sought to reproduce as faithfully as possible a cockpit timepiece at the scale of a mans wrist.

The original Bell & Ross BR-01 collection not only offers its purchasers the opportunity to acquire a real on board instrument but the chance to "get into the skin of a fighter pilot on a mission" whenever they tell the time. Available in rubber, leather or fabric the BR-01 Instrument range is multi-tasking as each model can be used as a wrist, pocket watch or desk top clock. In terms of marketing, Bell & Ross couldn’t be better, no watch brand has ever gone further with and for its customers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Icloo6dfC0w

Based on the fighter plane cockpits from the 1940’s the BR-01 92 Blue Automatic watch has an overtly military appearance for its civilian vocation. The machismo watch features extra large 46 mm blackened steel case, black dial and bright blue luminescent coated hands and indexes for perfect legibility in all conditions.

Water resistant to the depths of 100 metres, the very functional scratch proof BR-01 94 in carbon finished stainless steal features a three counter automatic chronograph movement making it popular with the manufacturers sporting clientele including Jenson Button and his F1 team mates.

The ultimate boy toy of the BR-01 series has to be the Tourbillon with its fighter jet dial like design and photo luminescent coating for night reading. With aeronautical instrumentation the Tourbillon is the most noble of watch complications making it the favoured timepiece for design advocates such as American architect Peter Marino.

Each model within this tough-luxe collection is a limited edition with only 500 pieces made for each design. The BR-01 remains loyal to its original concept based on four key principals: readability, performance, resistance and precision making it the premier watch for professionals who demand optimal reliability and un-compromised style.

Words: Sanyika Odieté

Adidas Forrest Hill - A Legend Reborn

Originally designed by NASA for Adidas in 1977 for the Tournament Collection, the Forest Hill 72 sneaker quickly became a firm favourite within the line, not only due to its technical superiority at the time but also due to the variety of stand-out primary colours available amongst a somewhat bland sports footwear market.

Untouchable during the 1970’s in the design stakes, the Forrest Hill 72 today still combines its original unique ventilation system with industrial leather uppers and a chalk blown rubber outsole which also integrates with a toe bumper. It was due to this innovative creation that the sneaker not only became popular with tennis stars for whom it was originally created but also as a fashion shoe with sports superstars and celebrities alike donning the iconic sneaker.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbuO_CzfWBQ

With the three striped brand increasing in popularity across the globe, the Forrest Hill 72 became the first sneaker to attain a cult terrace status upon the feet of football Casuals. This influential subculture has remained so loyal to the symbolic sneaker that Adidas decided to pay homage to the legendary shoe by resurrecting it in conjunction with the Awaydays movie in Spring 2009 to find that it remains as popular as ever, selling out of the Manchester Size? store within 30 minutes of hitting the shelves! Like Awaydays Carty when he finally makes it, the Adidas Forest Hill 72 remains the Casuals connoisseurs trainer of choice and an integral sneaker within the Originals Collection leading the way in the global reach of the Trefoil brand.

Words: Sanyika Odieté

FEATURE: The Fold-Up Revolution

In a world where we are constantly being reminded of the effects of global warming along with the horrors of the economic recession, its no wonder cycling to work has become an increasingly popular trend for commuters looking for ways to beat the congestion charge and to do their bit for the planet.

Despite the rising numbers of cyclists however, many railway services into London have banned cumbersome bikes on their trains during peak travel times - which according to Boris Johnson MP "is completely bike-o-phobic and utterly bonkers" (well, he should know!), so in order to get around this and to fit with societies ever changing needs, bike manufacturers have at last revolutionised the 1970’s fold up bike taking it from the hard to ride, slow to fold kitsch gimmick of yesteryear to a sophisticated piece of engineering which rivals conventional bicycles on all levels making it a serious mode of transport for urban city dwellers.

It is no longer a rare sighting to see a suit clad businessman with a copy of the FT under one arm and his folding bike under the other as he dashes to the Boardroom, nor is it uncommon to see a skinny jean wearing Indie kid peddling along Shoreditch High Street on a fold up bike (or "Folder" as they are affectionately nicknamed) in fact, in 2008 over 4,000 fold up bikes were sold in the UK alone.

As societies thirst for technology and design has expanded so quickly in recent years so has the need to expect more from everyday objects; mobile phones now offer an array of different applications, game consoles have multi-media capabilities etc. Therefore it seems a natural progression to redevelop the bicycle to fold portably to fit our modern lifestyles with total ease; being light to carry, small enough to fit in the boot of your car and virtually theft proof as they can be taken anywhere and everywhere with you, the fold up is a cultural and practical revelation fulfilling all aspects of our cycling needs today. As the Folder movement continues to grow, so does the range of models available.

Brompton

Operating since the early 1980’s from a small west London factory in Kew, Brompton Cycles has become the dominant name in the UK folding bike market producing 22,000 foldable bikes a year with 70% being exported across the globe. Not only are these bikes claimed to be the easiest to fold but they also to fold up to the smallest size, due in part to their 16 inch wheels. The entry level model is basic with three gears, folding pedals and a neat pump priced at a reasonable £400 with the more technical and pricier versions rising into the thousands. Each Brompton fold up uses over 1,200 individual pieces to make up the design classic.

Birdy

Designed by ‘Riese und Müller’ the German Birdy bike released in 1995 was the world’s first fully suspended fold up bike. Lighter and often regarded as far sportier than the Brompton Cycle due to its stiff single-piece aluminum frame, beefy V-brakes and road biker geometry this bike is quickly gaining a large following as devotees say the ride is very similar to that of a rigid conventional bike, even with the same rapid acceleration. Weighing only 1.5kg the basic C2W (named after the Governments ‘Cycle to Work’ scheme) is an ingenious synthesis of touring bike and compact folder, blurring the boundaries of what you can do with a portable bike.

Dahon

Responsible for two-thirds of the folding bike market, the Los Angeles based firm is the world’s largest manufacturer of fold up bikes with assembly factories in Taiwan, Macau, China and the Czech Republic. Components by Brooks (who make the leather saddle) and Sugino (who make crank set) will bring smiles to the faces of many bicycle connoisseurs as Dahon have created an image as being the bench marker for design however with most models averaging a 20 inch wheel they lack the compactability of the Brompton and speed of the Birdy.

And The Future...........

Cube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g4VAJkLtQXE

Over the past 15 years German bike manufacturer Cube has pushed the boundaries of innovative design to create the ground breaking ‘Urban Street’ fold up which looks like its come straight out of the future with its sleek and sexy frame entwined with progressive technology. Comparable in size to road bikes of today this concept Folder will even fit into a ruck sack as it swiftly tucks itself away like the blades of a Swiss Army knife. Integrating front lights into the brake levers and a dynamo in the front wheel hub the lights are turned on automatically in darkness providing a unique safety feature generated solely from pedal power. Cube’s inspiration for this unique bike comes from the companies passion for cycling and lends itself to building the brand to the level it is today with inspirational and unique designs.

IF Mode

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BD2lFgMfh2k

Created by British industrial designer Mark Sanders for Pacific Cycles in 2008, the IF MODE folder incorporates all the benefits of your traditional folding bike but with sleeker aesthetics based on clean design and a strong focus on the ease of collapse. The IF (integrated folding) features an enclosed transmission and mono-blade wheel mounting which allows this bike to fold up in under five seconds with one simple twist action. The 26 inch wheels neatly lock either side of the dual hinged crossbar allowing what was the handlebar to now become a handle for the user carry the disassembled bike. This concept bike has already won many awards for its inventive design including the 2008 Eurobike Award and the Taiwan Excellence Silver Award.

Canondale Jackknife

Based on a college brief in 2006 to “explore what an urban bike could look like in 8 – 10 years” students Philippe Holthuizen and Rodrigo Clavel of the Elisava Design School in Barcelona co-created the unique Jackknife which was quickly snapped up by industrial design house, Cannondale. The Jackknife name originated from the way that the bike folds based around the axis – the seat tube itself rotates 180 degrees so that the front wheel flips to the back, making the bike small enough to fit in a rucksack. What is more unique, however is the absence of any chains, instead, it is powered by a hydraulic drive system which stays clean and requires little maintenance, again making it the perfect choice for city commuters. The design has been developed further to incorporate additional features that characterize the Cannondale brand such as oversized tubing, HeadShok front suspension, and a “lefty” monoblade fork. The Jackknife is “The Contortionist” of fold up bikes.

Words: Sanyika Odieté

The Shadow Project

Two separate entities in the form of fashion label Stone Island and independent design agency Acronym joined forces last season to create a unique capsule line under the co-branded label "The Shadow Project".

Founded by legendary Italian designer Massimo Osti in 1981 as an off shoot of the successful CP Company; Stone Island is not your traditional, and certainly not your average fashion house. It has often been said that Massimo Osti is to fashion what The Matrix is to film and this certainly seems to be the case with Stone Island, which even today through its futuristic vision remains loyal in its promise to deliver customers fashion with function.

http://www.stoneisland-corporate.com/media/video/shadow.htm

Known within the clothing industry as the "Laboratory Company" Stone Island has heavily invested in the research and implementation of fabric handling techniques. Design is at the forefront of Stone Island’s collections yet artistic creation is uncompromised. Simple materials don’t exit within the companies realm, instead hybrids are used, born from various laminates, generated through specialised dying, washing and coating processes making Stone Island undisputedly one of the most recognised and respected brands within the fashion industry today.

Fast forward thirteen years to 1994 and the German design agency Acronym was established by university friends Michaela Sachenbacher and Errolson Hugh in Munich. The partnership focused on pushing the boundaries of design whilst maintaining and expressing a unique viewpoint of mixing traditional outerwear fashion with the most technical and futuristic design.

Due to this distinctive outlook Acronym won projects such as the Analog MD Clone Jacket (voted ‘Coolest Invention of 2002’ by Time Magazine) and landed exclusive collaborations with companies such as W.L. Gore and Associates (the inventors of Gore Tex) and in 1997 with Massimo Osti. These assignments allowed Acronym to demonstrate their capabilities in advanced styling and functionality.

So, why then if two autonomous brands are thriving in their individual fields would they choose to undertake such a risky challenge by moulding a co-brand label?

Stone Island and Acronym are firm believers in the idea that should you stop learning then you stop evolving and as both brands are leaders in their specialised areas, they know they must never stop developing their key strengths and are keen to turn any weaknesses into power tools for the future. With this Trojan like work ethic in mind and the fact that, these two companies are made up from a similar DNA, they have worked together to develop their genes and by doing so have created a fresh and intelligent take on form and function through fashion and design.

Following what may appear on the surface at least, a basic formula the "Shadow Project" uses subtle colours and simple silhouettes in its design, yet each piece features intricate detailing. By reversing logical thinking the brand forms its garments from the inside out, ensuring each piece has a function and will work with and complement any other item within the collection. This concept is particularly enticing to the Shadow Project customer, as it means not only are they buying an item for a season but they are making an investment for the future which they can continue to add to as the project evolves regardless of when their original item was produced and/or purchased.

http://www.stoneisland-corporate.com/media/video/shw10new.htm

The "Shadow Project" is about soul and showing the world that beauty is more than skin deep. Therefore the technology begins on the inside and is built up internally rather than via surface design. The collection has been designed to become an extension of its wearer providing a second skin from fabrics that won’t rip or wear but will age with good grace. The project is not seen as a clothing line but as a living and dynamic idea which Stone Island and Acronym will keep building upon. This is a platform for growth and change which will continue to evolve proving that at last the roving divide between style and technology in modern apparel is finally unifying.

Words: Sanyika Odieté